Last weekend, Florence hosted the 2025 edition of Pitti Fragranze , the fair that for over twenty years has represented the beating heart of artistic and niche perfumery. Despite widespread talk of boycotts, a crisis in the format, or an inevitable "handover" to other European venues, the event once again demonstrated extraordinary vitality.
The overall feeling was that of a vibrant fair, brimming with new energy and a creative buzz that engaged exhibitors, retailers, journalists, and influencers. Numerous brands were present: some with solid, mature offerings, others still in their infancy, but nonetheless ready to take on new challenges. It is precisely this mix that makes Pitti unique: a place where perfumery is not just about business, but also about research, discussion, and experimentation.
The central role of Pitti Fragranze
Anyone familiar with the history of artistic perfumery knows that without Pitti Fragranze, we probably wouldn't be talking about this phenomenon as we understand it today. Its debut in 2003 at the Giardini Corsini in Florence wasn't just the beginning of a fair, but the birth of a language and a community. A place where the industry's pioneers consciously chose to foster creative independence rather than bow exclusively to commercial logic. Not that opportunities were lacking: significant offerings and business opportunities already existed back then, but the choice was to preserve a certain purity of the project, which still represents the true cultural and economic foundation of the industry today.
The other fairs and the inevitable comparison
In recent years, many European capitals have attempted to create their own exhibition space dedicated to niche perfumery: Milan with Esxence , Paris , Madrid , and even smaller events scattered across Germany, England, and other emerging markets. Each of these events brings with it specific interests, in some cases more closely tied to international distribution, in others to a more commercial vision of the phenomenon.
The problem certainly isn't the "commercial" aspect per se: the market, by definition, thrives on numbers and transactions. But reducing artistic perfumery to merely a catalog of well-packaged products would be a huge impoverishment. Esxence, for example, is certainly a significant trade fair, with a massive presence of brands and professionals. Yet, the question remains: is it a trade show or a cultural venue? Is it a moment of creative scouting or a generalist showcase that risks resembling so many other trade fairs? The doubt is legitimate, and many industry professionals continue to wonder whether it's really worth abandoning Florence to embrace "easier" but less distinctive models.
Pitti as a space of independence
Pitti Fragranze's true strength is its ability to remain faithful to its original spirit: rewarding creative freedom, giving space to independent brands, and embracing experimentation that would otherwise be less well-received. In this sense, the fair is not just an exhibition, but a cultural laboratory. A place where dialogue between historic brands and young talents fosters a vibrant ecosystem that never ceases to amaze.
Those who consider Pitti "outdated" or "dead" probably forget that without it, we wouldn't have the plurality of languages that characterizes niche perfumery today. It's natural for every city and every organizer to seek to attract brands and visitors, but the root cannot be replicated or replaced. Because roots don't move: they nourish themselves, grow, and continue to bear fruit right where they were born.
Conclusions
Pitti Fragranze 2025 demonstrated that, despite attempts to downplay its importance, the fair is in excellent health. The massive attendance of professionals, the variety of brands, and the ability to spark critical discussion confirm its centrality. Artistic and niche perfumery remains, by definition, a limited phenomenon, impossible to replicate on an industrial scale without distorting its essence. And this is precisely its value: offering olfactory experiences that speak of identity, exploration, and freedom.
In a world increasingly driven by standardization and fast-paced consumption, Pitti remains a bastion of independence. We don't know what will happen in ten or twenty years, but we do know that every September, in Florence, those who truly love perfume will continue to find not just a fair, but a home.
